Aug 5, 2009

Newfoundland Day 5

We made the long drive to Bonavista stopping along the way. When we arrived we went to the Dungeon Provincial Park which has sheep, cows and horses grazing on the land. Had an encounter with a very curious horse who decided that he’d approach me when I got out of the car to photograph the landscapes. He nearly pushed me over a few times and seemed really disappointed that I didn’t have food….but he decided to stick around and stay close anyway.

The highlight of this park is “The Dungeon” where the cliffs give way into a mammoth opening with two seaward-side channels. Continued erosion has led to inland collapse of the cave’s roof.



Then we went to get my “puffin fix” at the Bonavista Lighthouse and the Elliston Colony.

I've been told that the wind has to be blowing a certain direction for them to land on the cliff enabling nice close up shots. It was blowing the wrong way so I did the best I could photographing them on Bird Island. The Elliston Puffin site is home to over 400 breeding pairs and is actually the closest viewing of Puffins from land in North America.

We spend hours there watching as they went out to the ocean and brought back Caplin and other fish for their families. It's so funny to watch them land....they are clumsy birds and I was actually concerned that one of them would tumble off the cliff. We saw more somersaults than in a gymnastics competition.

I See You

Newfoundland Day 4

We checked out of the B&B in St. Johns and made our way to Cape St. Mary’s. Good thing we got an early start because the drive took longer than expected. That's what happens when you have a photo nut in the car pleading you to stop every 15 min. so they can capture yet another beautiful view. (and then there was the *almost* running out of gas incident in the most remote spot after visiting the Rocky River Fishery.)




Once we arrived in St. Brides where we were staying, we checked in and hurried out to visit one of the main reasons for this trip: The Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve which is located at the southwest tip of the Avalon Peninsula surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean. Since 1983 this irreplaceable natural treasure has been strictly protected as a provincial Ecological Reserve.





The walk to "Bird Rock" is 1.4 km of rough terrain from the Interpretive Centre. So at 1pm....carrying all the heavy gear we walked past the grazing sheep, sheer cliffs most well over 100 metres and colorful wildflowers following the trail that would lead us to the largest accessible gannet colony in Newfoundland.(second largest in North America).




Cape St. Mary’s has:

Gannets 11,000+ nesting pairs
Common Murre 10, 000+ nesting pairs
Black-Legged Kittiwake 10, 000+ nesting pairs
Razorbill 150+ nesting pairs
Black Guillemot 60+ nesting pairs
Thick-Billed Murre 1,000+ nesting pairs

Also: Cormorants, Water Pipits, Horned Larks, Ravens, Bald Eagles,





We came across the top of the trail and I got my first glimpse of Bird Rock, a sea stack only 32 feet from the main body of the Cape St. Mary’s headland and rising 100 metres from the ocean.
I don't even know what to say.

What a surreal sight.....one of the best experiences I’ve ever had. Thousands of seabirds nesting and raising their young. There should have been a no vacancy sign as every inch of the rock was completely packed with the beautiful gannets. They were gliding and flying amongst the steep cliffs and above our heads, plummeting into the ocean to feed.





I setup my cameras…..and forced myself to walk over to the rock right at the edge of the cliff. I setup my tripod and now I was ready to take some shots. Then I looked down.

BIG MISTAKE.

Instantly my knees went wobbly, I started getting lightheaded and I froze with fear. I couldn’t get my legs to move and I realized that I had a problem. There was no way I could shoot from the rock now that I’ve looked down and seen the cliff I’m perched on…..but I also know I’m going to have a hard time getting off the rock and back onto the top of the grassy area where at least I felt a bit braver. I accepted a helping hand and was relieved to be off the rock. I sat down with the tripod and once I was sitting, I found that I felt more stable.





The noise from the birds was deafening at times and I thought at one point it had started raining. It wasn’t rain. I wipe my face and see bird crap on my hand. I look at my camera equipment and bags….more bird crap. EVERYWHERE. Oh well…..that wasn’t going to stop me. The fog started rolling in at about 8pm and we left just before 9pm and went to grab dinner at one of the only places we could find….The Gannet’s Nest. We arrived just before they were closing and were lucky that they were willing to feed us! Especially since we were covered in bird crap and must have caused some raised eyebrows!






Newfoundland Day 3

Took a really long hike at Salmonier Nature Park with the 100 pounds of c amera gear, visited Petty Harbor and Cape Spear. Got lost.

Also explored the Trans Canada Highway. It's crazy to me how scenic it is, with natural water areas right at the side of the highway. So much to look at.....

Lead Me Home

Newfoundland Day 2

Exploring The Irish Loop & Cape Shore.

First stop of the day was Quidi Vidi, a small fishing community in St. Johns. Apparently it's one of the most photographed locations in Newfoundland.

The narrow and winding streets make you feel like you're in another world. Pretty houses and a lovely cove......and a Brewery. What more could you want?!

The Village

Next I wanted to see the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve so we decided on O'Briens Whale & Bird Tours. It was a good decision and seems to be the tour company of choice for the locals.

We boarded one of their 46-foot vessels and because of the photo equipment, I was told the best spot to sit was the top deck of the boat on the left side so I'd be closest to the Island and would get a good view. Our guide Michael was amazing navigating the rough ocean and went out of his way to provide me with as many photo opportunities as possible. I found it extremely difficult to get any shots that I liked because I couldn't figure out how to hold onto the boat and the camera at the same time without slipping or being thrown into the air a foot or two! So this is the best I could do :)

Witless Bay Ecological Reserve is North America's largest Atlantic puffin colony. More than 260,000 pairs nest there during the late spring and summer. Overall about 95% of all North America's puffins breed around the Newfoundland and Labrador coasts.

The Atlantic puffin is a member of the auk family and is related to the razorbill, dovekie, black guillemot, common murre and thick billed murre. They are much smaller than I expected, standing a foot tall at the most. They pair for life and each year they use the same nesting burrow to lay a single egg. Newfoundland is the main breeding area for this species in North America.

The Witless Bay Ecological Reserve contains four islands: Gull, Green, Great, and Pee Pee. This area also hosts the second-largest Leach's storm-petrel colony in the world (more than 620,000 pairs nest there). In addition, black-legged kittiwakes and common murres appear in the thousands.

Seabirds generally spend most of the year at sea and only return to land from May to August to breed and raise their young. For the most part, you can only view them by boat.....landing on the islands themselves requires a scientific research or special access permit.

Then he took us about 4 miles towards Ferryland to see two Humpbacks. The waves were about two metres high and it made for a very interesting trip! We got to the Whales and they were spouting and we saw one of them do a terminal dive and show his fluke. I was so interested in the experience that I actually forgot to photograph it!

For my friend Bill....Here's a Puffin!

Newfoundland Day 1

Once we landed in St. Johns, we checked into our accommodations and wasted no time getting out and exploring the area.

Our first stop was Signal Hill. An area so rich with history and stunning views. Perhaps that's why 97% of tourists to Newfoundland visit this iconic landmark.

Originally known as "The Lookout", It was named Signal Hill in 1762 for the practice of signaling the arrival of ships with signal flags. The hill was also instrumental to our defense and communication history.

Our second stop of the day....Cape Spear. I wish I'd had more time because this is a spot you could easily spend days photographing the landscapes, old WW2 buildings and lighthouses. It's the most easterly point in North America.
We saw a few whales in the distance, spent hours photographing the shoreline and by the time I got around to the lighthouses......the light was fading fast. Next time I make it to Newfoundland, I'll be spending more time there!!!

We quickly realized that this trip was going to be a big test of strength and endurance. To make the most of Newfoundland you have to walk. And when I say walk, I mean heavy trekking up and down steep terrain, loose rock, and long trails. Then add who knows how many pounds of photography equipment and you've got yourself a great workout!!

Each day we were carrying around two camera bodies, a wide-angle lens,70-200 f/2.8 IS, 100-400, the 400mm f/2.8 IS (AKA: The Beast), a tripod and heavy Kirk BH1 Ballhead, raingear, various filters and gadgets, drinks, the ever-so-important GPS, jackets etc.

I have muscles aching that I didn't even know existed. But that's just the kind of "vacation" I needed and wanted.

The Rock

Jul 24, 2009

Newfoundland Trip - July 2009

Back from a wonderful trip to Newfoundland. I saw whales and seabirds, beautiful scenery everywhere and met some of the nicest people. If you've never been.....put this on your list!

We visited Cape St. Marys, St. Johns,Bonavista,Trinity,Witless Bay.......each place had it's own charm.

This was taken in Bonavista as the last light of the day was disappearing. Stayed and watched them for a while throwing out a net to catch Caplin.


Jul 3, 2009

Montana Trip - June 2009

I'm back home after visiting Montana for a week to see Glacier NP and Triple D for the "Animals In Spring Workshop" and I have to say....I'm not happy about it! I have never seen a more beautiful place. Ever.

From the emerald colored lakes in Glacier, vast mountain views, stunning waterfalls and rivers, curvy roads built into the mountains,stunning sky and sunsets, working ranches, interesting history, friendly people and the abundance of wildlife. I really felt like I was where I should be.
I wish I was still there. If I ever win the lottery....you'll know where to find me!

I made the mistake of refering to our trip as a "vacation" to my husband. He's insisted that getting up every morning at 4 or 5am to get out and shoot is not a "vacation". He does admit that it was a great "trip" though. We had such a limited amount of time so I didn't want to waste a minute of it. Get up early and stay out late. But now that I'm home.....I see lots of sleep in my immediate future.

This view is St. Mary Lake in East Glacier. My attempts at landscape photography don't do this beautiful area justice.

The Last Best Place

Day 1: Arrived in Montana early in the afternoon....picked up our rental SUV and went to the Rocky Mountain Outfitters to buy bear spray. I'd heard that there was a huge number of bears in Glacier NP and wanted some protection...just in case. I was so excited about the possibllity of seeing a big Grizzly appear in front of me on a trail. But I also wanted to be prepared just in case we were charged.

Two days before we arrived a jogger was charged by two Grizzly's. Unfortunately he was alone and had left the spray in his vehicle. He was bitten twice but I hear that he's recovering well.
I believe in responsible photography....I would hate to think that my actions disturbed the normal behaviour of an animal or possibly made them more aggressive for the next person they encounter. While I like to get close, I also try to keep an eye on their behaviour for any signs of fear or aggression.

That happened with this Moose. After watching her for about an hour in West Glacier...I hadn't realized how much closer she had come to my position. At one point she raised her head, gave me a nasty staredown and started peeing in the water. I don't know a lot about Moose but I heard that could be a sign of aggression. I moved quickly around the SUV to put it between myself and the crazy moose. I decided that the photography session was over and left her to do what Moose do.

Oh Barf....Another Tourist

Day 2: The day started EARLY....or at least early for me. Had a meeting at Triple D at 7am to go over the itinerary for our shoots and met Rod Barbee who was leading our workshop. Then we headed out to our first location to shoot this Red Fox Family.

Right away I noticed how Triple D pays attention to every detail. From waiting for the right light, choosing the perfect location for the animals and customizing it based on the groups suggestions and providing the most wonderful photographic oportunities I've ever had. (In addition to that, they are all amazing people that are very focused on making everyone happy.)
We also had two more sessions on this day....a young River Otter and a Grey Fox. We also saw a wild Bald Eagle on the way back to Triple D.

Then after the shoots we rushed out to explore West Glacier again and were lucky to find the same female Moose from the day before in the same spot. This time she appeared to be in a much better mood and we hung around for at least 2 hours watching her.

I enjoyed driving and stopping along Going To The Sun Road and exploring some of the trails on the way. We could only get as far as Avalanche Pass because they still hadn't cleared the snow after that point.

On my next trip out there I'm going to go later in the year so we can experience Logan's Pass and drive all the way through.

Got back at about 11pm and realized that we wouldn't be getting much rest since our shoots the next day were going to start at 5:15am. Seriously??!!! I thought the meeting at 7 was early!

Fox Family

Day 3: Morning came WAY to early....could hear my husband muttering about how getting up at 4:00am is bordering on abuse. Poor Guy.

We all met up at Triple D and then drove over to our first location of the day for a Cougar shoot. A rocky ridge up a very steep hill, lucky I had my Sherpa there to help with my equipment.
We also had the opportunity to photograph an adult Bobcat, Bobcat Kittens and this beautiful Wolf without any barriers between us and the animals. Chris loved the Wolf session since we had to drive across a small river to get there....glad we didn't rent a car, it never would have made it across. We go all the way to Montana and what thrills him is driving across a river?!!! Men are weird.

Close Encounter

Day 4: Got to sleep in until 5:15am on this day.....at least it felt like sleeping in compared to the day before.

Our sessions included Lakota the Wolf, Rose the Grizzly Bear, Pipsqueek the Otter and Lynx Babies. This was the last day of the "Animals In Spring Event" and I wasn't ready for it to end! So I decided to do one of the optional shoots the next morning.

Went to Glacier to look for wildlife....lots of deer around. Still couldn't find any Grizzly's or Black Bear. I stopped the SUV at one point and told Chris to get out and start jogging. He looked a bit confused until I told him that the joggers seem to be the only one's seeing any bears. :P No surprise that he refused my suggestion!

Double Trouble

Day 5: First thing in the morning we went to do the optional session that I was participating in. Chris got to drive over the river so he was happy and I got to watch a Cougar bound around and swim.

Went to visit West Glacier for the last time and was rewarded with lots of wildlife viewing and stunning landscapes against stormy skies. The drive up to Camas Creek was amazing and I was shocked that we didn't come across any bears.

Double Take

Day 6: Early morning we took the long and scenic drive to East Glacier along Highway 2. It's a stunning route and I couldn't take my eyes off the beauty around me.

Just east of Essex about halfway between East & West Glacier we came to the Goat Lick....Mountain goats like to hang around this natural salt lick on cliffs that overlook the scenic Middle Fork of the Flathead River. We were lucky enough to see a few of the Goats and it's an area I would like to spend more time exploring on my next trip.

Just past that we came to the Silver Stairs. This waterfall is on the side of Highway 2. We spent some time there, climbing up the "stairs" and getting pretty wet. I was shocked at how cold the water was but it was a great way to cool down on a hot day.

Then you drive through the Lewis & Clark NF and across the Continental Divide....finally entering The Blackfeet Indian Reservation and taking 49 and 89 to East Glacier.

We had a busy day visiting St. Mary, Many Glacier and driving all over the park. We wore ourselves out doing the trails....stopping to relax when we got down to St. Mary Falls.

At one point we saw something large and brown at the side of the road and I got excited thinking it was a Grizzly. No luck....it was a cow belonging to the Blackfeet Indians. (note to self: make appointment to get my eyes checked!) Guess it just wasn't meant to be on this trip.

The drive out of the park was nerve-racking since it was past 10pm and getting pretty dark. There are no barriers between the lane going out and the huge drop down the cliffs. Not to mention that it's hard keeping your eyes on the road with so much to look at!

It was a perfect trip and I hope to go back early in 2010. One week just isn't enough...

Stairway To Heaven

More photo's from the trip:

Having A Chat

Mountain Wildcat

Reminder Of The Past

Life In The West

Where The Heart Is

Spring Baby

Bobcat Baby

Still

King Of The Mountain

Making A Splash

Stealthy

A Spring Soak